I used 3/4-in.-thick stock so I could use screws to hang tools within. The thick back made it easy to attach the cabinet to the wall. I used less than a sheet of 3/4-in.- Another Point of View and 2 4-ft.-long continuous hinges to construct my cabinet. I got whatever I required at the local house center.
Cut the cabinet frame pieces to size. Rabbet the sides (A) for completions (B) and the back (C). Rabbet the ends for the back, too. 2. Glue the cabinet frame and back at the same time. Make certain the assembly is square prior to you drive the nails and screws. 3. Set up the shelves (D).
Bevel the racks' back edges to match the slope that works best for you. Screw the shelves from the back and nail them from the side. 4. Cut the door frame pieces. Rabbet the door sides (E and H) for completions (F and J). 5. Cut or thrashing grooves in the inner door frame pieces (E and F) for the dividers (G).
Put together the inner doors. Ensure they're square. 7. Round over the edges and rout rabbets around the outer door faces (K). 8. Assemble the outer doors. Make sure they're square. 9. Cut the hinges to length with a hacksaw. 10. Lay the cabinet on its back to set up the doors.
Then connect the hinges. 11. Clamp the outer doors on the inner doors and attach the staying hinges. 12. After hanging the doors, set up magnetic catches and install the latch. 3. Immediate Surface Area By Tim Johnson In my compact shop, everything has to be portable and stowable, including my work surfaces.
It's simple to maneuver since it folds flat for storage and weighs less than 25 lbs. It sets up in seconds and is remarkably rigid. 1. Cut the legs (A) and rails (B and C) to size. 2. Cut the hand hole and mortises for the 270-degree hinges in the back rail.
Cut half-lap joints in the legs and rails. 4. Lay the back assembly on your bench and clamp the swing-leg assemblies on top of it outdoors position. Make sure the leading edges and outside faces of the swing-leg rails (C) are flush with the leading and outdoors edges of the back rail (B).